Tuesday, November 20, 2012

AUSCHWITZ RETREAT: NOT KNOWING WHY


Taking a break between meditation periods on The Selection Ramp.





         I knew I wanted to sign up for the retreat at Auschwitz as soon as I learned about it last February. I was reading a book about socially-engaged Buddhism, a path of special interest to me, when Bernie Glassman’s work with the Zen Peacemakers first came to my attention.

          Bernie, a Zen Buddhist teacher now living on the East Coast, has organized annual retreats at Auschwitz for the past 18 years. The intention is to gather together a diverse group of people to “bear witness” to genocide and other human acts that are difficult (maybe impossible) to understand with the thinking, rational mind. The Peacemakers, an order of Zen Buddhism Bernie founded, believe that by sitting and walking with an attitude of “not knowing,” by being fully present for whatever Auschwitz has to teach, a profound learning about the human condition can take place.

          When I read about the retreat, I immediately heard myself say, “I want to do that.” And soon after, heard my voice of self-doubt ask, “Why?” Nine months later, I landed in Krakow and, as I waited in line in the airport terminal to exchange euros for Polish zloty, heard an American voice ask, “Peacemaker?” I smiled an enthusiastic, “Yes!”

          Between that first intuitive but still shaky “yes” and the second confident one, came all the voices of friends and family. The most common reaction upon hearing me say "Auschwitz" was some version of “Why on earth would you want to do that?!” Even when their bewilderment was unspoken, they seemed surprised, even shocked. But a few, especially friends who are meditators, seemed to understand the desire to look deeply at what is hard to look at. Some got the concept of deciding to do something without knowing exactly why. One old friend, a Jewish woman who had visited Sachsenhausen, the concentration camp outside of Berlin, said, “You must go!” Another even considered coming along.

          So I told myself, “Maybe” and set out to try to dispel my own doubts if not those of others. I studied the Peacemakers website, looking for clues about whether this was for me: What kind of teacher was this Bernie? What kind of people did such a thing? Was I too old? How physically fit did one have to be to “sit in meditation by the tracks” at Birkenau. . . in November? I emailed Ginni, the registration contact person, with my bio and talked with her on the  phone.

          I bought Bernie’s book, “Bearing Witness,” and, by the time I had finished reading it, my doubts had receded into the background. (Well, except for doubts about whether my many layers—undershirt, long underwear, cotton pullover, wool sweater, down sweater, microfiber jacket, rain jacket and waterproof pants—were enough to keep me warm and dry. Those doubts I never completely let go of!)

          Bernie, I learned, was not your “typical” Zen teacher—if there is such a thing. I stopped worrying about having to be a “good student” when I learned that he had been known to assume the persona of a clown named “the Bubbiesattva.” (Google “Bodhisattva” if you don’t get the joke.) Bernie did “street retreats” in the Bowery to bear witness to homelessness. Also, Bernie was even older than I. If Bernie could do it. . .I could do it!

          As for what kind of person signs on for this retreat, Ginni assured me there would be people with many different “reasons” for joining the group, including people who had a reason similar to mine. Besides many Jews from Israel, the U.S. and Europe who came to remember the victims, there were sure to be Germans, probably some with direct family ties to the perpetrators. Like me, Germans who had come on past retreats, Ginni said, had often experienced a life-long sense of pain because of their national identity. Like me, these German people usually felt a deep desire for peace within themselves and in the world.

          Ginni assured me that I was not alone in what I felt, and she also gave me the perfect way to answer my (and others’) doubts. She reminded me of one of the three tenets of the Zen Peacemakers: not knowing, keeping the mind open, letting go of fixed ideas. I didn't have to know “why.” I only needed to trust my intuition that something in me and in the world might be healed by bearing witness to the horror of what took place at Auschwitz. I could, and would, simply keep saying, “I don’t know exactly why I’m going, but it feels right.”

         And, in fact, it was.

Walking out of Birkenau Death Camp (Auschwitz II) at the end of the day.



Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Saying goodbye to a new love, Krakow

   I've been hanging out in Krakow since Saturday when the five-day retreat at Auschwitz ended and most people headed for home. I've done some writing about the time I spent at Auschwitz and Birkenau--117 people from 20 countries, meditating and listening to the voices that arise out of the silence of that place--but life kept pulling me away from the computer and out into wonderful Krakow. Some people from the retreat have also stayed on, and the opportunities to continue the rich conversation about our diverse reasons to be here and our experiences on retreat proved to be irresistible. Even the unusually mild weather has drawn me outside for long walks on the winding cobblestone streets, around the corner to the Old Town Square and into Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter. 

   It seems that by making Shindler's List, Steven Spielberg has single-handedly revived Krakow as a tourist destination, and the restaurateurs, tour operators, hotel proprietors, as well as musicians and artists have responded with offerings catering especially to an interest in Jewish life and the history of Jews in Poland. Add to this the fact that the city has a huge number of students (350,000 out of a total population of one million) and that its beautiful old buildings were not destroyed during the war, and you end up with a wonderful mix of picturesque European city, university town, and cafe society. Very lively, charming, and small (and flat!) enough to walk just about everywhere. And did I mention cheap delicious food? Poland is in the European Union but still uses the Polish zloty. Perhaps that is keeping the exchange rate favorable to American tourists.

   So enough gushing about Krakow. I've fallen in love, and here are a few photos taken today, to show you some of its charms. No time for captions, but I don't think you'll need them to get the picture. I fly back tomorrow to New York, spend the night with Jim in Nyack and wind up this two-month adventure on Thursday when I land in San Francisco. There will be more blogging, I hope, especially about the retreat. That, by the way, was everything I'd hoped for. And even more.











Sunday, November 4, 2012

FROM NORTH TO SOUTH: HAIKU




AT FRAUKE'S

Old barn, now new house.
Beyond the line of oak trees
a horse flicks at flies.



Frauke's house and adjoining apartments, converted from an old barn
by her husband Klaus, an architect. Klaus died four years ago, but his
presence is palpable in the house itself and all the beautiful memories it holds.




IN SANTORINI

Greek island. Humans
dug in, built out, white-washed walls.
God edged all in blue.


On the trail north from our villa looking toward Oia. Carol and I did the 6-mile
hike in 3.5 hours--"Pretty good," we were told by a local, "for people your age."

Caldera cliff house.
White on white.  And every blue--
sea, sky, doors and domes.


 Looking south toward town of Firostefani from our top terrace.  On this level
was the room of our generous hostess, Vicki Ruskin, who invited eight
 women friends to help celebrate her 70th birthday here. Vicki's room was dug
into the rock cliff on the left as were other rooms on two more levels below.

Nine women nested
like osprey. Below, crowds crammed
in floating hotels.


Canvas sail still now.
Last night's wind, furious flapping.
Silence at daybreak.


Our main deck, complete with boat sail to provide shade. Straight off
 the "bow" is the deep lagoon and Volcano Island, the central cone of
 the volcano. Santorini is essentially what remains after an enormous
volcanic explosion  created the  current geological caldera. A giant
 central lagoon is surrounded by high steep cliffs on three sides.





EUROZONE DIVERSITY: GREEK ISLANDS

. . .and on Santorini, a different kind of life.



Palms and bougainvillea
black rock and red beaches


feta and olives
ouzo and retsina
motos and burros


Zorba and Odysseus
relaxed and slow


widows in black, tourists in bikinis


white stucco, terraced roofs
blue shutters, blue domes



cliff caves and open vistas



early to bed, late to rise.

Unfamiliar. And beautiful.





EUROZONE DIVERSITY: GERMANY

   I have finally arrived in Krakow, the final destination of my Grand Tour. And before entering the five-day retreat period at Auschwitz/Birkenau, I want to back-track a few weeks and post what I drafted in Rome about Germany and Greece. Seems I'm always a little behind as a blogger!

   Here and in the following two posts are some thoughts and photos showing the contrasts I encountered as I went from northern Germany to Santorini, one of the southern-most Greek islands. Once in the Eurozone, I never had to go through customs nor change to a new currency. Yet still I encountered, remarkably intact, a diversity of history, language, geography, cuisine, and character that makes travel so interesting and mind-opening. 

   One theme of my retreat at Auschwitz will be "oneness in diversity." The retreat teacher, Bernie Glassman, explains: 

   "We yearn to find things that are common to all human beings, around which we can come together. But underlying that yearning is the desire for people to be the same, to be the same as us, to affirm our way of seeing things. And that's the trap. . . .Adolph Hitler had wanted a one people event. His way of doing it was to eliminate diversity. He created hundreds of places like Auschwitz and Birkenau where he could destroy diversity and create one people who looked the same, lived the same. But he couldn't do it. Because the one thing we ultimately have in common is that we're all different."

   May the difference live on. And may we come together in peace through a deeper understanding of our differences.


In Germany. . .
oaks and heather

Heather in the Lueneburger Heide (Heath) where Frauke and I went hiking. 

wet, green, and flat 

Frauke (right) in garden of Lene (left) and Harrow Rademacher, Frauke's
brother and sister-in-law who hosted us for a "family history tour" in
 Wiesens, Ostfriesland. This is the area in northwest Germany where our
great-grandfather lived, and where our roots go back to the mid-1500s.

schnapps and riesling
brown bread and salami
kuchen and kaese
BMW's and bicycles
efficiency, frugality
Hansel and Gretel
sturm und drang

Berlin Wall, section called the "East Side Gallery"

red brick and stained glass
steeples and steep roofs
umbrellas and sweaters
tidy, cozy and protestant
early to rise and late to bed.

Typical north German farmhouse with connected barn.

Family. Familiarity.

This rock, where I'm sitting with Frauke's brother Harrow, is part of the family
 legacy. It's a spot where children going back many generations, and including
Frauke and her siblings, played as children.


My German family: Hillmer, Joanna, Frauke, Harrow, Lene and Marianne.
Frauke, Marianne, and Harrow are siblings, my second cousins. Marianne
and Hillmer's son, Habbe (not in photo), is married to Joanna; they are working
the family's dairy farm and raising another generation in the family house.
Their parents have moved across the road into a beautiful converted windmill.